Pet Care Tips Archive

Pet Care Tips Archive

June 18, 2010

May 21, 2010

June 18, 2010

Summer Pet Care by The American Animal Hospital Association

When the lazy days of barbecues and swimming pools roll around, you can make them even better by sharing them with your favorite pet. By following a few summer pet safety tips, you can keep your animal friends healthy and enjoy the months of sun and fun.

Never leave your pet in the car. Though it may seem cool outside, the sun can raise the temperature inside your car to 120 degrees Fahrenheit in a matter of minutes, even with the windows rolled down. If you need to run some errands, leave the furry ones at home.
As you're outside enjoying the warm weather, keep your pet leashed. It will keep her from getting lost, fighting other animals, and eating and drinking things that could make her sick. This tip isn't just for dogs--even cats can learn to walk on a leash if you train them.
Water, water everywhere. Whether you're indoors or out, both you and your pet need access to lots of fresh water during the summer, so check her water bowl several times a day to be sure it's full. If you and your furry friend venture forth for the afternoon, bring plenty of water for both of you.
Pets need sunscreen too. Though all that fur helps protect her, your pet can get sunburned, particularly if she has light skin and hair. Sunburn in animals can cause problems similar to those it can cause in people, including pain, peeling, and skin cancer. So keep your pet out of the sun between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and when you do go out, rub a bit of sunblock on unprotected areas like the tips of her ears, the skin around her lips, and the tip of her nose.
Say no to tangles. Keeping your pet well groomed will help her hair do what it was designed to do: protect her from the sun and insulate her from the heat. If she has extremely thick hair or a lot of mats and tangles, her fur may trap too much heat, so you may want to clip her.
Watch out for antifreeze. Hot weather may tempt your pet to drink from puddles in the street, which can contain antifreeze and other chemicals. Antifreeze has a sweet taste that animals like, but it's extremely toxic. When you're walking your pet, make sure she doesn't sneak a drink from the street.
Be cautious on humid days. Humidity interferes with animals' ability to rid themselves of excess body heat. When we overheat we sweat, and when the sweat dries it takes excess heat with it. Our four-legged friends only perspire around their paws, which is not enough to cool the body. To rid themselves of excess heat, animals pant. Air moves through the nasal passages, which picks up excess heat from the body. As it is expelled through the mouth, the extra heat leaves along with it. Although this is a very efficient way to control body heat, it is severely limited in areas of high humidity or when the animal is in close quarters.
Make sure your pet doesn't overexert herself. Though exercise is an important part of keeping your dog or cat at a healthy weight, which helps her body stay cool, overdoing it can cause her to overheat. Keep the walks to a gentle pace and make sure she has plenty of water. If she's panting a lot or seems exhausted, it's time to stop.
Take it easy on pets that can't deal with the heat. Elderly, very young, and ill animals have a hard time regulating their body temperature, so make sure they stay cool and out of the sun on steamy summer days. Dogs with snub noses, such as Pekingese, pugs, and bulldogs, have a hard time staying cool because they can't pant efficiently, so they also need to stay out of the heat. Overweight dogs are also more prone to overheating, because their extra layers of fat act as insulation, which traps heat in their bodies and restricts their breathing capabilities.
Bring them inside. Animals shouldn't be left outside unsupervised on long, hot days, even in the shade. Shade can move throughout the afternoon, and pets can become ill quickly if they overheat, so keep them inside as much as possible. If you must leave your pet in the backyard, keep a close eye on her and bring her in when you can.
Keep an eye out for heatstroke. Heatstroke is a medical emergency. If you suspect your pet has heatstroke (see "Signs of Heatstroke,"below), you must act quickly and calmly. Have someone call a veterinarian immediately. In the meantime, lower the animal's body temperature by applying towels soaked in cool water to the hairless areas of the body. Often the pet will respond after only a few minutes of cooling, only to falter again with his temperature soaring back up or falling to well below what is normal. With this in mind, remember that it is imperative to get the animal to a veterinarian immediately. Once your pet is in the veterinarian's care, treatment may include further cooling techniques, intravenous fluid therapy to counter shock, or medication to prevent or reverse brain damage.

Even with emergency treatment, heatstroke can be fatal. The best cure is prevention, and Fido and Fluffy are relying on you to keep them out of harm's way. Summer does not have to be fraught with peril--with ample precaution, both you and your furry friends can enjoy those long, hot dog-days of summer.

Signs of Heatstroke:

Panting

Staring

Anxious expression

Refusal to obey commands

Warm, dry skin

High fever

Rapid heartbeat

Vomiting

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Content provided by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA). Visit the AAHA pet owner Web site at www.healthypet.com for more pet care advice and to find an AAHA-accredited veterinary hospital near you.

This information is provided for educational purposes only and is intended to be a supplement to, and not a substitute for, the expertise and professional judgment of your pet's veterinarian. It may be necessary to consult your pet's veterinarian regarding the applicability of any opinions or recommendations with respect to your pet's care and concerns, symptoms or medical condition.

May 21, 2010

When Sound Hurts by Jen Reeder and the American Animal Hospital Association

Several years ago on the Fourth of July, a hound dog named Elvis was in the backyard of his family's home when fireworks began exploding in his neighborhood. Terrified by the loud noises, he managed to break through the yard's fence and ran into the street-where he was hit by a car.

"Veterinarians are typically very busy with emergencies during and following a holiday with fireworks and noise involved," says Brenda Forsythe, DVM, CAAB, and owner/chief veterinarian at Orcutt Veterinary Hospital in California, where Elvis-who survived his ordeal-was a patient.

"Noise sensitivity and its more serious form, noise phobia, are fairly common in pets, particularly dogs, because of their excellent hearing," Forsythe says. "Some cats will get skittish and they'll hide, but they don't typically try to chew their way out."

Thunderstorms, fireworks, and other loud noises can cause a pet with a noise sensitivity or phobia to break into or out of a home or yard, excessively whine and bark, suddenly urinate and defecate, and destroy property in an attempt to escape the fearful situation.

Dogs oftentimes have no control over their actions when they are experiencing these extreme states of anxiety, and punishment only worsens the anxiety associated with these panic attacks induced by loud noises.

Animal behaviorists tend to agree that the best approach to helping a pet with a noise sensitivity or phobia is to seek help as soon as possible by asking your veterinarian if your pet's behavior is normal.

"Owners should trust their common sense," says Soraya Juarbe-Diaz, DVM, DACVB, CAAB. "Don't assume 'they'll grow out of it.'"

Juarbe-Diaz, of Northbay Animal Hospital in San Rafael, Calif., is a behaviorist who is certified by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists and whose practice is accredited by the American Animal Hospital Association.

Although owners may want a quick fix with medication, the best approach for the long term is behavior modification tailored to the pet's needs. For example, if a puppy howls and runs out of the room every time the microwave dings, owners can try to desensitize it to the sound by sitting with the puppy and a toy, treat, or brush (if it likes to be brushed) at a distance from the microwave where the puppy can hear the ding and not react. If the puppy is quiet, reward it. If not, go even farther back, possibly muffling the sound by covering the microwave with a towel.

"Identify the trigger, water it down so it's tolerable, and practice, practice, practice," Juarbe-Diaz says. "If after a week there's still no change, guess what-it's time for medications. Then start the process again."

Medication can be a bridge to effective behavior modification if an animal's panic is inhibiting its ability to learn a new behavior. Juarbe-Diaz is quick to note that medication alone will not work-a combination of the two is often ideal. She compares treating noise phobia to treating diabetes-insulin is necessary as well as dietary modification and exercise.

The only real drawback to behavior modification is that it isn't fast, especially in dogs that have had the phobia for years without intervention.

For the committed pet owner, there is "definitely" hope for pets with noise sensitivities and phobias, Juarbe-Diaz says. And helping pets with behavior modification exercises has an added benefit. "When you start doing this, the animals trust you more. They know you're dependable," she says. "Everybody wins in this one."

April 30, 2010

Skin Problems in Pets by the American Animal Hospital Association

Dogs and cats suffer from many problems that affect their skin. It is important to understand that the skin is an organ, just as the liver and kidneys are organs. The skin functions as a barrier to protect the body from infection, caustic substances, ultra violet light and dehydration. Good health and proper function of the skin is dependent on the health and function of the other organs that make up our pets' bodies.

Diseases that affect the skin can be placed into one of two categories, primary and secondary skin disease. Primary skin diseases are those that affect the skin directly, such as mange or flea and tick hypersensitivities. Secondary diseases are those that initially involve other organs, and thereby affect the skin, such as hypothyroidism.

The diagnosis and treatment of skin diseases can be difficult and time consuming. The following are some of the common diseases and conditions affecting the skin. A brief description of their diagnosis and treatments is provided.

Allergies

Humans with allergies usually react by sneezing, but your pet reacts by scratching. Both you and your pet are reacting to an allergen, which is a substance that causes sensitivity. Most allergens are inhaled, but a few are the contact type, such as an allergy to wool. Some allergens are found in food, most commonly corn, wheat, soy, beef and dairy products. The first signs of allergic reactions are scratching, licking, biting or rubbing the skin. This can lead to infection characterized by red bumps and pimples. Because of the discomfort, it is important to get professional help as soon as possible.

Bacterial Infection

A bacterial infection is common, but is usually secondary to another underlying disease such as an allergy. Treatment for bacterial infections may include antibiotics- either given orally or topically. It is important to seek professional help to treat the bacterial infection while searching for the underlying disease.

Hot Spots or Acute Moist Dermatitis

Hot spots are usually a result of self-trauma and occur as your pet tries to relieve itself from some pain or itch. Treatment includes thorough cleaning, topical and systemic antibiotics, and anti-inflammatory agents.

Pyoderma

Pyodermas include a wide range of infections that result in the formation of pus. Pyodermas vary in severity. Treatment is similar to that for hot spots, but typically is longer-term. Shampoos and rinses are also helpful.

Atopy or Allergic Inhalant Dermatitis

Atopy is a very itchy skin disease that is the result of allergies to microscopic particles in the air. Diagnosis is based on clinical presentation and absence of other causes such as ectoparasites. Treatment includes dietary supplements, antihistamines and steroids and is often long term. In refractory cases, skin allergin testing and hyposensitization may be helpful. Shampoos and rinses are also often helpful.

Ectoparasites (external parasites)

External parasites include mites, fleas and ticks. These parasites break the barrier formed by the skin and allow bacterial infections to occur. They also may lead to allergic conditions. Diagnosis is achieved with gross observation and microscopic examination of skin scrapings. Treatment depends on the parasites present and includes antiparasitic drugs and antiparasitic shampoos and rinses.

Fungal Infections

These include Malassezia sp., Dermatophytosis (Ring Worm) and Dermal Coccidioidomycosis. Diagnosis is achieved via culture of the organisms, microscopic examination of skin scrapings, and blood tests that identify antibodies for Coccidioides immitis. Treatment includes topical and systemic antifungal drugs and antifungal shampoos and rinses.

Food allergies

Food allergies often manifest themselves as skin problems. Food allergies are usually diagnosed by ruling out other possible conditions. Treatment is trial feeding of hypoallergenic diets for a minimum of six weeks.

Irritant Contact Dermatitis

Contact allergies are diagnosed based on history of contact and clinical presentation. Treatment involves washing the exposed areas to remove the irritant. Patients experiencing itching are given steroids for a short period of time. It is important to prevent re-exposure.

Autoimmune Skin Diseases

There are several autoimmune skin diseases, and the foundation of diagnosis is surgical biopsy. Treatment includes combinations of dietary supplementation, steroids and immune modulation drugs.

Secondary Skin Disease

Secondary skin diseases, such as hypothyroidism, are diagnosed via clinical testing for the underlying disease. Diagnosis often requires blood tests, biopsies and X-rays. Treatment of the underlying condition usually results in improvement of the skin problems.

Diagnosis and Treatment

Your pet's skin problems often combine two or more of the previously mentioned diseases. For example, flea infestation hypersensitivity can lead to pyoderma. Because of the complicated interactions between the skin and other organs within the body, and due to skin's varied response to insult, diagnosis and treatment of skin diseases may be difficult and time consuming.

The skin scrape is the mainstay of diagnoses. Several small areas of your pets skin are shaved to remove hair. A scalpel blade is used to scrape up the top layers of skin. The resulting material is viewed under a high-powered microscope. In addition to skin scrapes, blood tests and surgical biopsies are necessary to diagnose some skin diseases.

Treatment of skin disease may include steroids, antibiotics, antihistamines, topical drugs, antifungal drugs, shampoos and rinses, dietary supplementation, or modification and surgical removal of masses. In some cases, therapy must be continued for months, and even for life. (Information provided by Dr. Brett Hinsch, Animal Health Hospital.)

April 16, 2010

Allergies by the American Animal Hospital Association

Is your cat grooming half her hair off or your dog licking his paws raw? It may well be your pet is experiencing allergies, one of the most common health problems for pets. Just like people, animals have allergic reactions because their immune system--the system that protects the body from foreign and potentially infectious substances--overreacts to some material. Almost anything--pollen, dust, an ingredient in pet food, a household chemical, an insect bite--can set off an alarm in the immune system, causing it to pump out large amounts of white blood cells, hormones, and other material called histamines into the bloodstream. The result for animals can be a range of different effects, including itchy, swollen skin--known as pruritis--difficulty breathing, or a disruption of the digestive tract such as vomiting or diarrhea. These symptoms are the animal equivalent of a person's sneezing, runny nose, and watery eyes.

Pets with these kinds of allergic symptoms can be pretty miserable creatures, and unfortunately they can't be cured. Allergies are life-long, chronic problems. The good news is that there's a lot you can do to help your animal "children" feel better. The best way to start is to find out what your pet is allergic to, so you can keep the allergen out of his environment. Animal allergies generally fall under one of four main categories.

Contact allergies

These are the least common type of allergy in animals. They happen when an animal's skin comes in contact with the material he's allergic to--if he rubs his face against a wool blanket, for example, and he's allergic to wool. The chemicals in flea collars can cause this problem as well. The skin at the point of contact will be irritated--it may itch, become thickened or discolored, have a strong odor, and/or lose hair due to constant biting or scratching. Contact allergies are generally not a hard problem to solve--they're usually confined to a specific area of an animal's body, and the allergen shouldn't take too much work to discover. You can try removing different materials that your pet touches until you find the one that irritates his skin.

Food allergies

Diet can be a complicated factor in pet allergies. Most animals are not born with allergies to food; their immune systems develop an allergic response over time to some part of their diet, often one of the animal proteins. A food allergy can present in a lot of different ways, including the itching, digestive disorders, and respiratory distress already mentioned. They can be a real challenge to solve, however. You can try to figure out what's causing your pet's allergic reaction by feeding him different diets, but the allergic effects of food can stay in the system for eight weeks. You may have to keep your furry friend on a special hypoallergenic (non-allergy-causing) diet for eight to twelve weeks to see how he reacts, and you may have to do it several times with several different diets before you find one that doesn't cause an allergic reaction. And while you're feeding these test diets, you'll have to make very sure that your pet doesn't eat any treats, vitamins, leftovers or scraps, or even plants around the house. He has to eat the test diet exclusively for the entire eight to twelve weeks to determine whether he has an allergic reaction to it.

Inhalant allergy

Inhalant allergies are the kind we humans are most used to. Just like us, our pets get hay fever, meaning they can be allergic to the pollen and mold that fills the outside air during the spring and fall. They can also be allergic to the dust mites, mildew, and mold that can be inside every home. These kinds of allergens usually produce severe itching in pets, which is usually concentrated in the ears, feet, groin, and armpits, though it can be spread across the entire body. Dogs in particular may develop hairless, irritated "hot spots" from constantly chewing on and scratching the affected skin.

Most animals that are allergic to airborne particles are usually allergic to more than one. Often, they will only experience itching during the pollen-heavy seasons of the year, just like humans with hay fever. If you find that your pet's allergies seem to be seasonal, you may be able to limit his outdoor time during allergy season. Your pet may be reacting to an indoor allergen, however, or an allergen that doesn't vary by season. In that case, there's not much you can do to keep him away from whatever he's allergic to, though an air filter might provide some relief.

Flea allergies

This is an extremely common problem for pets, possibly the most common allergy of all. Animals aren't actually allergic to the fleas themselves, but to proteins that fleas secrete in their saliva when they bite. Your pet doesn't have to be a walking flea circus to suffer from an allergy, either. Affected animals can itch severely from a single bite for over five days! So, if you suspect your pet is allergic to fleas, you're going to have to work very hard to keep the little pests away. Frequent baths are a good idea, as are the prescription flea applications and pills. Consult your veterinarian when you chose a flea repellent for your pet, though; the wrong kind or too strong of a concentration could cause irritated skin, seizures, and even death in extreme cases. You will also want to treat your pet's environment, including any bedding or carpeting he comes in contact with.

Other Options

What makes allergies hard to deal with is that in many cases, you either won't be able to determine exactly what is causing the reaction or won't be able to remove it from your pet's environment. This is where your veterinarian comes into the picture. You and your veterinarian will probably have to work together to determine the best treatment, or combination of treatments, for your pet's allergy. You may have to go through a series of trying a possible solution, waiting to see how your pet reacts to it, and moving on to another solution. Your veterinarian may suggest one or more of the following things:

Testing - Your veterinarian has a few different tools to help determine the source of your pet's allergy. Intradermal or "scratch" tests involve making small abrasions in an animal's skin and inserting small amounts of materials that the veterinarian suspects the pet might be allergic to. If the animal is allergic to one of the materials, say dust mites or ragweed pollen, the immune system will react to it and that particular scratch will become inflamed. There are also a number of blood tests your veterinarian can use to analyze the amount of certain chemicals that the immune system releases into the bloodstream when exposed to different allergens. These tests can be used to tell whether your pet is having an allergic reaction or whether the problem is caused by something else, and sometimes they can determine the source of the allergy.
Steroids - These drugs work to suppress the immune system and make the allergic reaction less severe. Steroid treatment can help your pet even if you can't determine what he's allergic to or how he's being exposed. They can have several side effects, however, and they affect nearly every organ in the body. Steroid use can cause weight gain, increased thirst and urination, and increased aggression and other behavioral changes. They are generally used if the allergy occurs for a short amount of time, because long-term use makes animals more prone to infection, as well as susceptible to diabetes and seizures.
Immunotherapy - This is one of the safest and most effective ways to treat allergies, but it also takes the longest amount of time to work. In immunotherapy, animals are given regulary--often weekly--vaccinations that contain small amounts of the substance they're allergic to. The same therapy is used for people who go in for allergy shots. It gradually desensitizes the immune system to the allergen, meaning that as time goes by, the immune system is reprogrammed and doesn't react to the allergen as strongly. Unfortunately, it takes some time for the immune system to readjust. It can sometimes be six to twelve months before animals show any improvement from the treatment.
Antihistamines - These drugs, much like the allergy medication people take, work to block the chemicals released by the immune system, called histamines. They are effective at reducing itching and inflammation, and they are relatively safe to use. Their major drawback is that they cause sedation, and can make pets extremely drowsy and sluggish. Occasionally, they can change an animal's energy level enough to affect his quality of life.
Symptomatic treatment - Even if none of the above treatments are effective, you can still give your pet a lot of relief by simply treating his symptoms as they come up. There are a number of soothing shampoos on the market that contain ingredients like oatmeal or Epsom salts. Your veterinarian may also be able to suggest ointments, ear treatments, or sprays that can make your pet more comfortable. Be cautious about using home remedies or herbal treatments on your pet, however. Consult with your veterinarian before trying any new treatment, because you could damage your pet's skin or aggravate the allergic reaction. Most of all, remember that while you can give these symptomatic treatments often, they will only provide temporary relief. If your pet still seems uncomfortable despite the baths or other treatments, you can talk to your veterinarian about long-term treatment.

Whatever treatment decision you and your veterinarian come to, rest assured that the patience and determination it can take to treat allergies is well worth it. Though it may take some time and effort, you can help your itchy, grouchy pet feel comfortable again.

March 19, 2010

Chocolate is dangerous for pets by the American Animal Hospital Association

Give chocolate to loved ones, and you could end up poisoning them. That is, if the loved ones are your pets.

Even small amounts of theobromine, an ingredient in chocolate, can cause vomiting and restlessness in pets. Larger doses can be fatal. While most pet owners expect a dog to develop an upset stomach after eating a large amount of chocolate, few realize its toxic potential.

The lethal dose of theobromine depends on the size of the dog and the type of chocolate. Ounce for ounce, baking chocolate has six to nine times as much of the substance as milk chocolate does.

Estimates of the smallest amounts that can be fatal are:

4 to 10 ounces of milk chocolate or 1/2 to 1 ounce of baking chocolate for small dogs, such as Chihuahuas and toy poodles.
1 to 1 1/2 pounds of milk chocolate or 2 to 3 ounces of baking chocolate for medium-sized dogs, like cocker spaniels and dachshunds.
2 to 4 1/2 pounds of milk chocolate or 4 to 8 ounces of baking chocolate for large dogs, including collies and Labrador retrievers.

Cats have much different eating habits and seldom are poisoned by chocolate.

While a very small amount of chocolate may not harm some dogs, it's safest to avoid giving it to them at all. If an accident occurs, a veterinarian should be consulted. Treatment may require inducing vomiting, stabilizing the animal's heartbeat and respiration, controlling seizures and slowing the absorption of theobromine. If the animal already is comatose, its stomach may need to be pumped.

March 5, 2010

External and Internal Parasites by the American Animal Hospital Association

What makes pets such a prime target for parasites? Animals provide the perfect living environment. Blood, sweat, and tears isn't just a rock band from the 60's--to the parasite, they're a three-course lunch. Pet hair also is a warm, protective environment and a means of transportation to another host.

Skin deep

The most common unwanted visitors having a party at your pets' expense are ectoparasites--fleas, ticks and mites. They live on or burrow into their hosts' skin. Fleas are particularly pesky, since they can infest your pet and take over your home. The good news is that they're fairly easy to spot--you'll probably notice your pet's discomfort and scratching. The small (a little more than one millimeter), wingless, brown, and fast moving fleas may even be seen in your pet's fur.

Some dogs and cats can be allergic to fleas' saliva, which causes their skin to become inflamed. In addition, if the fleas carry pathogens, cats may easily become infected because they ingest about 50 percent of the fleas on their coats while grooming.

If your pet has fleas, your first thought might be to try an old-fashioned flea dip. But these dips can be highly toxic, inducing severe side effects like vomiting, fever, seizures, coma, and possibly death. Instead of dipping your dog or cat, you can easily apply a drop to your pet's skin that will kill fleas and prevent adults from laying eggs. Your veterinarian can suggest safe, effective products for your pet.

A hitchhiker

Another common parasite, especially during the summer months, is the tick. Ticks can be found looking for a free ride almost anywhere in most climates, though they prefer to hang out in wooded, damp, and grassy areas before attaching themselves to your pet. Some tick bites may be harmless; others can cause anemia, skin damage, irritation, and hypersensitivity.

Some of the most common diseases transmitted by tick bites are Lyme disease, tick-borne fever, and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. If untreated, these diseases can cause severe health problems and can be fatal.

So what are some of the signs of a tick-borne disease? Common symptoms of Lyme disease are arthritis, lameness, depression, and loss of appetite. Tick-borne fever can cause weakness, a cough, labored breathing, fatigue, and discharge from the nose or eyes. The symptoms of Rocky Mountain spotted fever are similar to those of tick-borne fever. Or more generally, you may find that your pet isn't eating and is lethargic, depressed, and feverish. If any of these symptoms occur, it's imperative that you take your ailing buddy to the veterinarian as soon as possible.

The best preventative is to check your pet's skin and fur after spending a day in the woods, at the local lake, or even in your own backyard. Removing a tick the wrong way can hurt your friend. Don't try to burn it off with a match. The smell of the smoke won't make the tick loosen its grip, and the match could burn your furry companion. An alcohol swab rubbed or placed around the area may help loosen the kung fu grip of the tick. Using tweezers, grab the tick as close to the head as possible and slowly pull it out. If you flush the tick down the toilet before killing it, there is no promise that it won't crawl back up at an inopportune time. The best way to kill a tick is to place it in a sealed jar with alcohol.

It might be a mite

Another parasite to watch for is the mite. Lots of pet owners are familiar with ear mites. If you notice your pet scratching his ear intensely or biting himself, he could have ear mites. These pests also leave a brown or black crust on the outer ear.

Another type of mite is scabies. After burrowing into your pet's skin, scabies mites lay eggs. Once they hatch, the larvae feed on your pet's skin and release a secretion that causes severe itching. Take your pet to the veterinarian immediately if you suspect scabies mites, because they are highly contagious, and the excessive scratching they cause can lead to infections.

When treating mites, your best bet is to take your pet to your veterinarian rather than to try an at-home remedy or an over-the-counter medicine that may not be effective.

Crawling in and crawling out

Almost all puppies and kittens have some type of internal parasite feeding on their blood and protein. These parasites can affect your pet's ability to absorb nutrients, and without treatment, they can potentially damage the lining of the intestinal tract.

The most common internal parasites are tapeworms, hookworms, whipworms, and roundworms. Tapeworms can be passed onto your pet through fleas, which sometimes carry this parasite in its larval stage. Outside pets also can get them by eating infected rodents. If you find your pet is constantly licking his anal area, your best bet is to visually inspect the area and his stool for bits of tapeworm, which look like rice.

Hookworms attach themselves to your pet's intestinal lining, causing bloody or dark diarrhea. Whipworms, which can be found in the large intestine, also can cause diarrhea. If you notice blood in your pet's stool, collect a sample to take into your veterinarian, because the worms and eggs are only visible by microscope.

Last, but of course not least, is the roundworm, which lives in the small intestine. These worms may cause vomiting and resemble strands of spaghetti in your pet's stool. They are easily transmitted to humans, especially children, and can cause serious human health problems, including blindness.

An ounce of prevention

How can you protect your family and pet from these common parasites? If your children enjoy playing in the sandbox, remember that the neighborhood cat might, too. If the sandbox has become his litter box, your children run the risk of contracting roundworms through fecal-oral transmission. Children are more prone to roundworm, but avid or amateur gardeners also need to beware. That neighborhood cat may be using your garden for his litter box as well. The best preventatives are to cover up the sandbox, wear gloves when gardening, and constantly wash your hands after being outside.

Collecting a stool sample each year and taking your pet to your veterinarian will help ensure that he is worm free. Most heartworm medicines now contain a preventative for whipworm, roundworm, and hookworm, so be sure to follow your veterinarian's recommended dosages.

Pay close attention to your pet. If you notice your furry companion scraping his bottom on the carpet, scratching his ears, vomiting, passing diarrhea, turning up his nose at the food bowl, or just not being himself, take the hint that something is wrong and schedule an appointment with your veterinarian immediately. Parasites can be a problem any time of the year, but a few preventative measures will protect the health of all of your loved ones.

February 19, 2010

Perfectly Designed for Peskiness by the American Animal Hospital Association

Fleas are mean, lean, biting machines - creatures that are perfectly designed by nature to pester your pet. Like a shark in the water or a wolf in the woods, fleas are ideally equipped to do what they do - which is to be out for blood! A close-up look at these tiny parasites shows just how well adapted they are for this job and why those adaptations can make them so hard to get rid of once an infestation gets underway.

First, fleas have a very hard exoskeleton. Their bodies are covered by a tile-like shield of tough plates called "sclerites." This makes squishing them - if you are lucky enough to even catch one at all - almost impossible. This exoskeleton is waterproof and shock resistant, and it helps fleas to resist some of the sprays and chemicals that people use to try and kill them.

Second, growing from these plates are little spines that bend backward. These spines lie flat against the flea's thin, narrow body and don't get in the way as the flea scurries through your pet's fur in search of food. However, if anything (like fingers or a self-grooming pet) tries to pull a flea off through that hair coat, these spines will stick to your pet's fur like Velcro, making them difficult to remove.

Third, pound for pound - or should we say, milligram for milligram - fleas are one of the best jumpers in the natural world. A flea can jump 150 times its own length vertically or horizontally - almost seven inches high. That's the equivalent of a person being able to jump a thousand feet in the air. When they jump, fleas also accelerate through the air at the amazing rate of 140 g's. That's astounding if you consider that fighter pilots need special equipment and training to avoid passing out at forces of 9 g's during turns in a fighter jet. Somehow, though, the tiny flea not only survives these superhero-size feats - it thrives because of them.

There are a couple of interesting reasons why fleas can do what they do. First, fleas have very long rear legs with huge thigh muscles and multiple joints. When they get ready to jump, they fold those long legs up and crouch like an Olympic track star on a starting block. Second, several of their joints include small, springy pads of a special material called resilin. This material stores energy and helps catapult fleas into the air as they jump, sort of like the way a rubber band adds momentum to a slingshot. This makes it easy for adult fleas to find and quickly jump onto your pet as it walks by. And then there's a final adaptation that helps them to hang onto anything they reach once they get there. Fleas have tiny eyes and don't really have very good aim when they jump. Many times, they simply tumble and somersault through the air as they fly toward their target. When they land, though, they have small, outward facing claws on the bottoms of their legs. These claws help them to grab and hold onto anything they touch when they land.

Fight Perfection With Prevention!

For all of these reasons, you are facing an intimidating if tiny opponent once a flea infestation is underway in your household. In addition to all these perfected physical adaptations, fleas also have amazing life cycles that allow immature stages to lie dormant until conditions are favorable for them to emerge and find food. The best way to control fleas, therefore, is to simply prevent them in the first place. Environmental sprays and topical sprays can help reduce an established problem, but the most efficient and least messy way to avoid fleas is to use one of the many topical or oral monthly flea prevention products that are available through veterinary hospitals. These products are effective and easy to use. If you do not have a prevention and control program for fleas in place, be sure to ask for recommendations at your next veterinary visit.

February 5, 2010

Flea Prevention: A Good Investment

Beth Thompson, VMD for the American Animal Hospital Association

The current economic downturn has many pet owners looking for ways to cut back on expenses, but one way that does not make sense is flea prevention. Preventing fleas has always been easier - and much more economical in the long run - than trying to get rid of them after they've infested your pet and your household. Today's effective topical and oral monthly flea-prevention products wind up costing only pennies a day, really - no more than a candy bar or the price of a stamp - when you spread the cost out over the year.

Many owners are lulled into a false sense of security because they don't see visible signs of fleas on their pets. They may think that they can afford to forego preventive treatment. However, fleas are good at hiding in your pet's haircoat and in the environment. Their bodies, sleek and thin, are extremely well adapted for scurrying and disappearing in dense fur, especially near the ears, tail, head, and groin. Unless you are expressly looking for them, you may never actually see them. When infestations are mild or emerging, many owners may think that their pet's itching or scratching is part of its normal grooming behavior. Cats, in particular, being the fastidious groomers that they are, are very good at grooming fleas off of themselves. That, however, doesn't stop new fleas from jumping on them.

Fleas are well adapted to survive a broad range of environmental conditions and are very capable of surviving indoors year-round, even during winter. Keep in mind that the adult fleas you may or may not see on your pet represent only 5% of the flea population. The other 95% are lurking in various immature stages in your pet's immediate environment - in bedding or carpeting or hiding in hard-to-reach crevices. While flea pupae normally hatch in about two weeks, they can exist in a suspended state for weeks or even months when environmental conditions aren't just right. This dormancy period means that you may have a continually emerging source of new adult fleas for up to several months, even after you have started treatment. Most topical or oral flea-prevention medications require the adult flea to actually be on the pet or to ingest a blood meal in order for the flea to be killed. And, the environmental sprays that must be used in extreme infestations aren't always effective against all of the life stages of immature fleas, particularly if pupae have hidden themselves in hard-to-reach places.

In addition, fleas are ubiquitous in the environment, and it is easy for pets to pick them up while outside. Fleas can be carried into your yard and even into your home by local wildlife, such as raccoons and mice.

Be Pound Wise, Not Penny Foolish

These special life-cycle and environmental adaptations can lead many owners to think that flea-prevention products don't work and aren't worth the investment, because they may continue to notice new fleas. The reality, however, is that they do work and are highly effective over time when used as directed. The best way to avoid fleas is to use one of the many proven topical or oral monthly flea-prevention products that are available on the market. These products are very safe and easy to use. Be sure to ask your veterinarian for recommendations on how to prevent and control these pests.

Recession-busting preventive health care tips

1. Don't chintz on routine preventive care - preventing parasite infestations and potentially serious diseases is much more economical in the long run than trying to treat problems after the fact.

2. Substitute healthier and less-expensive treats, like baby carrots and veggies for costly store-bought goodies for your pet.

3. Regular, health-appropriate exercise helps keep the doctor away! If you don't take your dog for walks or play with your cat regularly, start doing so now. Most veterinarians agree that even a few minutes of regular daily exercise can help improve a pet's health and vitality.